At radiator inlet neck 190F
at thermostat 205F
at rear of cam housing 165F
at carb 135F
at intake manifold 170F
at heater hose to heater core 145F
Radiator was full and clear of debris.
Is this too hot?
| Author | Comment | ||
|---|---|---|---|
sprintin69 |
Engine Temps w/ data |
Lead | |
|
Using a Crapsman IR wired heat sensor here is the data I got from a 69 ZH Sprint that had been idling for 30 minutes.
At radiator inlet neck 190F at thermostat 205F at rear of cam housing 165F at carb 135F at intake manifold 170F at heater hose to heater core 145F Radiator was full and clear of debris. Is this too hot? |
|||
sprintbird |
|||
|
Why do you think this is too hot? You probably have a 190 stat in you car don't you? A cold engine is just as bad as a hot engine in that it is not
efficient. Modern engines run 190 to 195 stats.
Rob |
|||
sprintin69 |
|||
|
I am trying to diagnose a problem. When the car is started and warmed up it will drive fine and has good power. After 30 minutes of regular driving it starts
to loose a little bit of power. A few months ago I was asked to check the temps.
|
|||
sprintbird |
|||
|
Sorry, I missed that. What is your car doing/not doing?
I will try to help if possible. Rob |
|||
sprintin69 |
|||
|
Using fresh premium gas and driving for 30 minutes the car runs fine. After that it seems to lose 20% of its power and will ping at higher rpms. Everything
is completely OEM.
|
|||
sprintbird |
|||
|
What brand and octane rating is the Premium fuel you are running? What is the current tune of the engine? (Mileage, etc.)
Trying to help, Rob |
|||
ohc4ever |
|||
|
Have you watched timing with a timing light when this is happening? Sticking mech advance in the distributor? Also have you checked vacuum readings (idle) to
see if they are different?
One other thing to check is fuel pressure AND volume. You could have a situation where your fuel tank sock is plugging. When the rust and scale and s**t comes off of the bottom of the tank after a half hour of driving and plugs it up to the point the pump cant suck it out of the tank with enough volume. This would cause the symptoms you describe. After you shut it off, some of this crap can fall off the sock and back to the bottom of the tank and for a half hour it might run ok. Just a thought. I had a '67 GTO with a 428 I built and it did this same thing. www.rockauto.com get a new tank and sender for cheaper than you'd pay to get the old one steamed and treated. Spectra Premium part numbers for 69 Firebird: GM32B Fuel tank with filler neck - $94.89 perfect fit, exactly like original you won't believe how nice it is. one of the two will be applicable for your application (these are listed under Camaro although the tank lists it fits 69 camaro and 69 firebird) FG104D 2 port sending unit and pickup assy with sock $76.79 FG104C 1 port sending unit and pickup assy with sock, 3/8" line $76.79 They had a ad in Hot Rod magazine with a promotional code that gives you 5% off of that too that runs through the end of this month, enter hotrodrewards in the "how did you hear about us" thing during the checkout process. Hope this helps, Mike BTW, your temp readings look very good, no hot spotting there. |
|||
sprintin69 |
|||
|
70k miles and I use Shell 93 Octane gas.
Mike those are some great suggestions and thanks for the pointers on parts and numbers. I have put a timing light on it and it is a few degrees advanced from the book which I think is plus 5 degrees? I replaced the fuel pump with a new 40528 so I know that it is good. Is there a clever way to check for tank rust without pulling everything apart? Thanks! |
|||
ohc4ever |
|||
|
The official way would be to put a T in the fuel line going from the tank to the pump and connect a vacuum gauge. Max allowable restriction is 2" mercury.
You could also use that gauge and check pressure, which would show a considerable pressure drop at higher load.
Or, try this. REMOVE THE FUEL CAP. Take the line off the fuel pump and try blowing back through. You should be able to hear bubbles from the fuel tank without much effort at all. If it feels like you're trying to inflate a tire there's a problem. Again with the fuel cap off, you could try blowing very regulated compressed air backward down the line to try to temporarily blow some crud off the sock. More than say 20 psi and you'll blow a hole in the sock though. Use caution. (Also note I have had little success with this over the years.) Or see if you know an electrician or mechanic with a borescope, a really handy tool to snake down the filler neck and peek around inside the tank. |
|||
sprintbird |
|||
|
I would try setting your timing to factory specs to see if drivability improves. If not, try ohc4ever's suggestions. Your engine was designed for a higher
octane rating. (10.5 to 1 compression) You may need to run an octane booster? Did it run ok before at the current timing setting?
Still trying to help, Rob |
|||
sprintin69 |
|||
|
Dumb question. After the 30 minute drive the gas tank will have a lot of sucking pressure when I remove the cap. Sort of like a whooshing sound. AGain
everything is still stock including the gas cap.
|
|||
TOHCan |
|||
|
Have you tried driving the car immediately after"venting" the gas tank? Is the car back to normal power?
|
|||
sprint67 |
|||
|
Mine has the same problem with the gas cap I believe I had issues with it years ago. Since then I've always just left the cap on loose so that it vents the
tank. Give that a shot.
|
|||
RSOHC |
Tank Venting | ||
|
You can drill a small hole in the cap to vent the tank. In other applications, I have seen a fuel pump create enough vacuum to partially collapse the fuel
tank resulting in a reduction of tank storage capacity.
|
|||
SPRINT 6 |
|||
|
Are the 69's vented like the 66'?
If so is it a short vent tube at the neck or does it return to the pump. I know on my 66' the short tube had clogged and was a PITA to get clear, but I did and have had no pressure issues since. |
|||